Cantine Isola

In the smoky Milan of the 1990s, Via Paolo Sarpi looked entirely different from today. Traditional Milanese workshops were declining, and the multicultural Chinatown that is now a culinary hotspot was then almost impenetrable. Against this backdrop stood a wine bar more unyielding than Asterix’s Gaulish village: Cantine Isola.

Founded in 1896, Cantine Isola is a true Milanese institution, run by the Sarais family since 1991. Ever since, it has been a benchmark of authenticity and reliable quality. Even casual drinkers quickly fall for its charm: bottles are the beating heart of the place, lining the walls from floor to ceiling, while the counter is laden with tasty bites and endless open labels.

Glass in hand, I often wonder how long it will take before that bottle high up on the shelf, dusty and faded at the label, finally gets uncorked. Perhaps I might even get to enjoy that private treat myself. Then I ask the owner, Luca, what wine it is, and my wallet brings me swiftly back to earth. In fact, Cantine Isola offers one of the most eclectic selections in Milan: you can open rare, prestigious vintages for a special occasion, or simply rely on the thoughtful by-the-glass list, with original options for every budget.

If you are an enthusiast and spot an intriguing bottle, ask at the counter if they might uncork it for a glass; more often than not, they are delighted to share a new find. The aperitivo is unpretentious and delicious: a selection of Venetian-style cicheti ranging from classic hard-boiled half-eggs to crostini topped with mushrooms or sun-dried tomatoes. The olives have a flavour all their own, and for something lighter, the crudités hit the spot.

The indoor atmosphere is lively, buzzing and unapologetically boozy. Most people drink standing at the counter, but there is no need to fret if you prefer to sit down with a glass of wine after work. You can take a seat out on the terrace and sip your wine while watching Paolo Sarpi drift by—still one of the most captivating sights in Milan, a swirling stream of multicultural life.

Between a sip and an olive, you can watch eccentric characters wander past. Do not blame the alcohol if you spot a painter loaded with gear, a bicycle packed high like a lorry and hear backing tracks playing down the street—it is just another day in Sarpi. Be sure to ask about events at Cantine Isola: Luca often delights guests by opening prestigious magnums or jeroboams. For any wine lover, these convivial evenings are rare treats where you can easily strike up conversations with fellow enthusiasts.

Photo Credit © Luca Giatti