Osteria Lagrandissima

Lagrandissima is a simple, straightforward osteria in the Naviglio della Martesana area between Gorla and Crescenzago, ‘almost in the countryside’, as what has become the venue’s slogan puts it. No design-heavy interiors here, just a warm and pleasant atmosphere as befits an osteria, with two bright dining rooms decorated in soft, light tones and nothing loud or overstyled: what leaves an impression is ‘simply’ the food, the wine and the friendly staff. But there is a real highlight: the outdoor terrace, delightful in summer, with a few tables set in a quiet old Milan courtyard among flowers and wild plants, which puts you immediately at ease and also houses the wine cellar in a small annexe at the back. A cellar that is one of Lagrandissima’s main strengths, featuring a vast and unusual selection of hundreds of natural labels from small artisan producers.

The short, unconventional menu shifts with the seasons and market availability, with fresh homemade pasta taking pride of place: whether ravioli, gnocchi, tagliatelle or pappardelle, the primi are reliably well made, generous and richly flavoured, just like nonna on a Sunday. Standout starters that rarely leave the list include polpette di melanzane with a fresh lift of mint, l’uovo morbido con gazpacho e pecorino, and asino tonnato (yes, donkey meat, you read that right). Depending on the season, the day’s produce and the chef’s inspiration, traditional dishes from Lombardy and Piedmont also feature, such as insalata di nervetti con cipolla, tonno di coniglio, lingua in salsa verde, carpaccio, insalata russa and salsiccia di pecora bergamasca. The board of artisanal cured meats and cheeses is equally thoughtfully sourced, full of character and flavour.