Osteria Perbacco

The sign at Osteria Perbacco is fun. A wine-colored owl with wide-eyed, comically strict eyes. Once inside it’s clear that the animal is the official mascot of the place where wooden tables are filled with owls of every shape and colour but that never seem redundant or annoying, though.

The mise-en-place is homely (wooden tables, raw paper placemats, cutlery and glassware) but perfect of its kind. If you go in the evening, a reservation is mandatory. You will find a place full of chatter, warmth and perfumes. And when you see the menu, you will understand why it is so crowded every night. The list is something amazing, full of foods that come from the ground (so don’t expect fish) with many vegetarian options and a lot of attention to allergies and various intolerances.

Homemade tagliatelle with wild boar ragout, cassouela, filet of foal with potatoes in foil on a wooden chopping board: nothing really is lacking, and even your eyes will be happy. Cold cut platters with fried gnocchi are simply perfect. Delicious homemade agnolotti, as well as pasta alla gricia or whisked risotto with seasonal vegetables. And the grilled ribs? Memorable. The host will also give you excellent advice on the perfect wine pairing to choose. Trust him: he’ll know which bottle is best for you at the first glance.

Leave space for dessert at the end. The chocolate salami and tiramisu are excellent, or try one of the seasonal desserts: strawberries with custard or the soft persimmon dessert. All these are perfect options to close off a wonderful meal.

The feeling that remains, after, is that of having eaten with your own family, but with an aunt behind the stove that is really a phenomenon.