Bitter or amaro? Everything you need to know before having an aperitivo or a drink

‘Bitter or amaro?‘ Ask that to someone outside Italy, and they will probably look at you blankly: to them, they are the same thing. Yet in Italy, where the tradition of spirits is held almost as sacred as football, there is a world of difference, even if many people still mix them up. Let us clear things up right away: bitters are the core ingredients of an aperitivo, meant to stimulate the appetite, while amari are enjoyed after dinner, help digestion and can be produced through distillation, maceration or infusion.

A few examples? Campari, a blend of herbs, roots and fruit that has become the worldwide symbol of Italian bitters and a key component of the Negroni. A special mention also goes to Aperol, whose notes of orange and rhubarb give life to the Aperol Spritz, the most popular cocktail in Italy and among the top 10 worldwide. With amari, on the other hand, you find the botanicals of the entire peninsula, from the alpine herbs of Braulio to quintessential Sicilian Averna. Italy is also the land of the Negroni and Americano for cultural reasons: unlike in other countries, Italians grow up accustomed to bitter flavours from childhood. Hands up anyone who never asked their parents for a sip of an alcohol-free Crodino at a party or birthday celebration.

There is more to it, however. Have you ever heard a bartender ask: ‘Would you like a dash of angostura?‘ They were referring to the most famous type of cocktail bitters: plant-based modifiers that, given their high alcohol content, are added drop by drop. In the second half of the 19th century, they were used for their aromatic complexity in drinks such as the Old Fashioned, the Manhattan and the Martinez. Today, they are prized above all by cocktail bars that use these tiny aromatic bottles to add nuance: there is no Pisco sour without a dash of Amargo Chuncho, just as a proper Sazerac cannot exist without a few drops of Peychaud’s. If you once shook your head at the mention of angostura thinking it was some mysterious potion, you will now be far better prepared.

Not that liqueurs lack magic. Their history dates back to 700 AD, when Arab alchemists began distilling oils and ointments for cosmetic purposes, as well as searching for the ‘quintessence’, a formula for immortality. Centuries and continents later, Caterina de’ Medici was the first to serve spirits recreationally, offered as a welcoming drink at the courts of Florence and Paris.

So what are liqueurs? EU regulations define them as ‘spirit drinks’ made with neutral alcohol of agricultural origin and an ABV ranging from 15% to 55%. They must also contain a minimum sugar content of between 70 and 100 g/l, a requirement that does not apply to amari (which is the main difference). Their recipes, preserved for centuries in abbeys across Europe, began to circulate when the French Revolution closed the monasteries and clerics came into close contact with local communities. This gave rise to the first homemade bottles, a tradition that endures today.

The production method varies from one amaro or bitter to another, but it usually starts with distillation, followed by (or substituted with) hot infusion or cold maceration. After filtration, the liquid can be bottled immediately or left to age, as is the case with Averna Don Salvatore, which rests for 18 months in former grappa casks and develops distinct notes of wood and liquorice. Embracing authentic Italian spirit, many bars now use amari much like angostura, adding them by the dash. Others make them the star of their cocktails, such as New York’s famous amaro bar Amor Y Amargo.

Each bottle has its own flavours and aromas: to find the right one for you, focus on quality, taste different varieties and explore different serves. If you are still undecided, let your trusted bartender guide you. This time, you will know exactly how to answer that curious question: ‘Would you like a dash of angostura?‘