Ca’ d’Oro alla Vedova

Tucked among the calli of the historic centre, osteria Ca’ D’Oro alla Vedova is an institution in Sestiere Cannaregio and among locals. In business for more than 130 years, it has seen generations of Venetians grow up and still gather around this authentic bacaro, sipping glasses of wine and nibbling on its famous polpette.

Known to locals simply as ‘alla Vedova’, the venue is located at Ramo Ca’ d’Oro 3912 at the end of a calle, set back from the bustle of the centre. The atmosphere is that of an old-fashioned osteria, where everything feels genuine: simple wooden tables and chairs set with traditional paper placemats. Prints of all shapes and sizes adorning the walls define the room, alongside large copper pots hanging from the ceiling. Antique chandeliers cast a warm light across the interior, completing the mood of an atmospheric osteria.

You cannot talk about the food at Ca’ D’Oro alla Vedova without mentioning the famous polpette, the house speciality. Displayed on the bacaro counter, they entice patrons to order a glass of wine and linger for a chat. The selection of cicchetti is broad and intentionally traditional: crostini with baccalà and grilled cuttlefish are just a few of the bites to try. You can also stop at alla Vedova for lunch or dinner to taste traditional Venetian dishes cooked with flair. The standout is bigoli, a long pasta served with anchovy sauce.

Ca’ D’Oro alla Vedova is the ideal bacaro to experience the Venetian lifestyle, sipping an ombra of wine and savouring the quintessential polpetta. Far removed from the surrounding tourist spots, it is an essential stop to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and flavours of authentic Venice.