Yapa

The cooking at Yapa is nomadic, instantly transporting you on a sensory journey across the Mediterranean, Asia and South America. It begins in Milan, between Porta Romana and V Giornate, as you cross a minimalist, slightly austere threshold that seems at first glance to have nothing in common with fiery Latin warmth. Once inside, despite the hypermodern aesthetic and a palette built entirely around textured shades of grey, the space feels warm and relaxing.

Perhaps it is down to the soft, warm lighting, the long counter where you can settle in to start the evening with a good cocktail and watch the energetic chefs at work, or the ambient lounge music. Or perhaps this monochrome setting, which extends to the plates and bowls, simply proves the ideal neutral canvas against which the colourful creations of chef Matteo Pancetti stand out with painterly clarity.

Pancetti (nomen omen?), a Tuscan from the province of Massa Carrara, stepped into restaurant kitchens at 15, but soon found himself cooking around the world, first in France and then in Barcelona, where he worked alongside chef Sergi Arola, overseeing the openings of his international restaurants. Places, people and cultures have shaped his life and his cooking: a mix of Mediterranean passion, Asian precision and South American spirit, anchored by a thoroughly Italian culinary philosophy rooted in a love of food, the joy of sharing, simplicity, quality and seasonality.

The menu at Yapa skips the traditional starters and mains, grouping dishes by category instead: from raw plates to what they call bakery (freshly baked breads), through to tacos and tempura, all designed to pair with the creative cocktails mixed by the expert bar team led by Mattias Sarli. Alongside ceviche (also available in a vegetarian version), ramen, guacamole and robatayaki (dishes cooked over a Japanese charcoal grill), there are thoughtful nods to Italian tradition, such as the Pagnotta soaked in extra virgin olive oil and salt or the Focaccia with mussels and provola cheese. Desserts reaffirm Pancetti’s culinary nomadism: from the classic Flan argentino to a serene black sesame gelato, through to the indulgent Affogato Mexicano with tonka bean ice cream, chocolate crumble, almonds, mezcal and coffee.