The 10 best trattorias in Verona
Ten addresses to discover traditional Veronese cooking. Here are the trattorias you cannot miss
Verona is the romantic city par excellence. One of the most famous love stories of all time unfolded along its streets, but Verona is not only Romeo and Juliet’s city. It is also the home of Amarone, the birthplace of pandoro, Carnival chiacchiere and countless other delicacies. To experience the true spirit of this magical city, you have to immerse yourself in its most authentic traditional cooking. Here are the essential addresses: the 10 best trattorias to discover true Veronese food and fall in love with it.
Osteria al Duca
Via Arche Scaligere, 2
Right in the centre of Verona, just steps from the Arche Scaligere, this historic trattoria takes you back in time. It is said to be the oldest osteria in the city, and that Romeo was born and raised in this very palazzo. Set across two floors, this family-run trattoria also keeps a small cellar stocked with the best local wines at genuinely fair prices. The house specialities are equally dependable: bigoli with ragù di asino, stewed snails and their Giulietta hazelnut and chocolate semifreddo. The set menu runs from €20 to a maximum of €23. Love at first sight.
Osteria da Morandin
Via Venti Settembre, 144
A no-nonsense osteria, just like its regulars. Authentic Veronese locals gather here for dinner with friends, or simply to catch up over an ombra of wine. A rustic spot just outside the historic centre yet an easy walk away, you will find it along the main street of the Veronetta neighbourhood. Our advice is to arrive early, as the star here is the cicchetti counter, featuring ever-changing seasonal bites. Try them all: fried little fish with polenta, baccalà crostini, cotechino and fried moeche. Once you have tasted your way through the counter, you will be ready to order your pasta.
Sottoriva
Via Sottoriva, 9/a
A small spot tucked under the porticoes opposite the Chiesa di Sant’Anastasia. With just twenty covers, this trattoria always makes you feel at home. It is warm and welcoming in winter, with outdoor tables when the weather turns warm. The traditional menu knows no limits, but if you have never tried it, order the Pastissada de Caval, a braised horsemeat stew served with steaming polenta. Keep in mind: it is first come, first served. The venue does not take bookings, and you will often share a table with strangers. Get there early.
Osteria Verona Antica
Via Sottoriva, 10
Set along one of the city’s most picturesque streets, just a short walk from Piazza delle Erbe, this is the perfect trattoria for a break from the bustle of the centre. The owner, Davide, is happy to talk you through the monthly menu, which changes constantly with the seasons. A staple instead is the classic menu and the famous ‘Cavallo in Osteria’: a tasting of locally produced horse meat and cured cuts.
La Taverna di Via Stella
Via Stella, 5
A short walk from the Balcone di Giulietta e Romeo, you will find one of the city’s best-known trattorias. Warm and welcoming, it greets you with dozens of hanging hams and a counter packed with cured meats and cheeses. The tables and benches are salvaged beech wood, while overhead you cannot miss the starry ceiling painted deep blue. Under these stars, let yourself be won over by the house specialities, including luccio in salsa and Zaletti con il Recioto: traditional biscuits served with a glass of sweet red Valpolicella wine.
Antica Trattoria Tipica al Bersagliere
Via Dietro Pallone, 1
If you love wine, this trattoria is the place for you. In the heart of town, in the historic Filippini neighbourhood, it is a haunt for notable figures and true connoisseurs of Veronese cuisine. With three dining rooms, a summer garden and a cellar that alone warrants a visit, this historic trattoria has a wine list of 200 bottles, 60 of which are Amarone alone. Between a plate of pasta e fagioli alla veneta and a risotto all’amarone, you cannot help but admire the unusual decor: a collection of fossils, family photos and Bersagliere hats. If it is on the menu, do not miss the Oco in umido.
Osteria ai Osei
Via Venti Settembre, 124
A little outside the centre, but well worth a visit if you are near Porta Vescovo. Rustic and picturesque, just like the pastoral scenes painted on the inn’s walls. Generous pasta and main dishes come at great value, around €25 a head. Try the bigoli with duck ragù, the pumpkin gnocchi, the straccetti di cavallo and the trippe alla veneta.
Osteria il Ciottolo
Corso Cavour, 39
A romantic osteria overlooking Castelvecchio, open for both lunch and dinner. There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, where rustic character meets contemporary furnishings. Displayed wine bottles, abundant greenery and walls in a vibrant Verona green set the scene for traditional dishes. Highlights include bigoli con le sardelle, stracotto di musso (donkey) with polenta and a tempting selection of homemade desserts.
Osteria Dogana Vecia
Via Filippini, 3
One of the oldest osterias in Verona, true to tradition: stone walls, a handwritten paper menu and a focused selection of dishes. A short menu is almost always a sign of quality, and it certainly is here. The menu changes daily with two starters, three pasta dishes and three traditional mains. If you visit on a Sunday, the house speciality is bollito misto con la pearà (a peppery bread-crumb broth sauce), which must be booked in advance. Once seated, you will spot a charming detail: the ceiling beams are painted with fitting Venetian proverbs, including ‘L’ultimo goto l’è quel che imbriaga’.
