Carrying on from our adventures at Identità Golose early this week, here’s a list of some our favorite new recipes from upcoming chefs.
La tartiflette by Alfio Ghezzi
This typical Val d’Aostan dish is made by baking layers of potato, bacon, onions reblochon, but this one’s a 3 Michelin star version. Maybe we can soon find it on the menu at Locanda Margon. The sliced potatoes are replaced by a potato cream, butter and mountain herbs. The usual bacon is replaced with salami paste prepared in a similar style to Calabrian nduja. The cheese – and here’s the kicker – is not Roblochon cheese but pasta cheese. Wait. What? The recipe usies Felicetti pasta which is cooked for 50 minutes in water that is just close to boiling. It is then left to stand for two hours covered with film before it is dried in an oven overnight. Once ready, the pasta is crushed and fermented in a pure water and salt solution. At 15-18 degrees the fermentation process is activated and creates a creamy pasta similar to that of a soft cheese, with the same consistency and odor.
The Pig Trotter by El Brite
Using the scraps, Riccardo Gaspari, presented a pork trotters served with celery water, porcini crumble, marinated beetroot, whey cream dried cabbage, apple granita and rosemary flowers. The pork leg is blanched with the bay leaf and cooked in a vacuum with milk all in the same Agriturismo for 30 hours. While it is still hot, the leg is boned and pressed down to form a kind of type of salami that is then lightly fried in the pan.
Samarcanda by Moreno Cedroni
This dish includes sweet, sour, spicy, salty and bitter flavors. Mashed sweet potatoes (made with butter, coconut milk and lime) form the base, and are topped with a blanched parsley sauce, fermented cabbage, sesame and salt cod. The stack is then doubled again.
Non Tiramisù by Oliver Piras
We take a little trip to Japan where Koji, an enzyme used for the fermentation of rice, barley, beans and in other preparations is widely used. Piras wanted to invoke the idea of tiramisu, but plays on it with ice cream, and meringues and an ancestor of coffee, a drink made with chicory and a barley base. This is then fermented with koji and burned. Something ingenious and very special.
Double Plates by Enrico Bartolini
Sometimes one dish is not enough to express all the creativity of a chef, and who wants to limit the palate of those who are fortunate enough to taste it? Matteo Bartolini splits his dish into two parts, with two radically different dishes. It starts with a squid soup, with marrow broth, a Salicornia sauce, hazelnut, and apple marinated in gin and lime. It is then followed with a fatty fillet of steak, seared and then sliced, pepper sauce, finger lime and a hint of soy bean puree. The plate is finished with a fried seaweed roll, ocher and squid, completing the circle.
Dreaming with Angel Leon
I visited Cadice under the worst possible conditions – torrential rain. Perhaps if I had known Angel Lèon back then, I’d have fonder memories. I’ll definitely return for the dish ‘The Light by the Sea’, and to hear the chef tell of his world and his passion for work and research. The man has invented meaty dishes from seafood, a burrata made with plankton and seaweed, chicharrones with moray eel, tripe made of ray skin, and a dish made of fish and pigeon eggs. There was even a type of soup made from the discarded parts of 9 different types of fish, which became one of the most interesting soups in the world, assembled in the dining room in front of the customer. Pure genius!