A stone’s throw away from San Babila, in the heart of the fashion district, you can inhale a special atmosphere here every day. Among the fantastic showcases of luxury brands, a past version of Milan can be seen, as suggested by the Palazzo Reina located in Via Bagutta, 12. On the first floor of the building, recently renovated by the Japanese design studio AB Concept, Pio Galligani and his wife Enrica del Rosso, already owners of Paper Moon, on the Milanese scene since 1977, have decided to take on the Paper Moon Giardino.
The project does not betray the original spirit of the place, an ancient private residence of a noble Milanese family, the Reina precisely. Paper Moon Giardino is a sophisticated and design venue, like the other 5 scattered around the world, enriched by the presence of a large garden.
A refined living room in a neoclassical style, where traditional elements are combined with extreme mastery to others of modern design. Light is the undisputed protagonist of the environment: it comes naturally from the entrance and the overlooking the garden it makes its way into the three rooms. The Grand Salon, the larger one, where white triumphs with the unique contrasting element of dark wooden chairs, the Wine Library which houses a more intimate setting, round mirrors and armchairs that change into mustard and beige tones finally, the lounge room, even brighter thanks to the large amount of mirrors embellished by a wall dedicated to vintage photographs. The ceilings, high and frescoed, increase the architectural impact.
The sublime simplicity of the mise en place suggests an art of receiving based on the true values of the past, without frills but without losing sight of the customer’s experience. The extreme preparation, professionalism and attention to every single detail of all the staff should be underlined, always ready to show the profound knowledge of the dishes, drinks and history of the location.
The Paper Moon Garden menu is divided into three sections: “without fire”, that is products processed as little as possible to enhance their freshness, “timeless”, therefore the evergreen, irreplaceable as a symbol of the Mediterranean tradition and the “inevitable season” which enhances the genuineness of the ingredients.
Fish is the great protagonist. From the raw as appetizers, tartare or chopped red prawns, to the inevitable mixed fry. In this season, excellent the cod in batter accompanied by a trio of sauces by the chef, as well as the risotto alla pescatora that triumphs with the freshness of squid and shellfish. Also noteworthy are the ravioli stuffed with burrata with red prawns, the Pacchero with tomato sauce and the linguine with seafood: traditional dishes that, if done artfully, as in this case, can give an extremely satisfying culinary experience.
The delicate baked croaker with vegetables deserves a taste too, served enclosed in a basket of bread, cheese and crispy tuna wrapped in grissini grains. The meat proposal is no less interesting: you can opt for the Milanese cutlet presented with a breadstick coating or a beef tartare with wild mushrooms.
The advice is to leave room for dessert to savor the Chef’s mastery to the full and to be captivated by the charm of this unusual address in the heart of Milan.