A tour of the best bacari in Venice
Authentic Venice through cicchetti, ombre and spritz
Next stop, Venice. Whether for a romantic escape or a weekend with friends, the Venetian capital is one of Italy’s most dreamt-of destinations, where you can lose yourself in the magic of a timeless atmosphere, discovering hidden alleyways and age-old traditions. Yet how better to savour the authentic soul of the Lagoon than through taste? By going for bacari on an authentic Venetian tour, of course. Legendary staples here are cicchetti – small bites of local dishes celebrating seasonal traditions – alongside ombre of wine, best discovered inside traditional bacari, ancient osterie where you can drink and snack unhurriedly, bite after bite. But wine is not the only drink of choice in this wondrous city, especially come evening: whether you prefer an Aperol Spritz or the Campari version, in Venice you are spoilt for choice. Among the lions of San Marco, gondolas and traghetti, this drink – one of the 10 most consumed in the world – is also one of the most ordered, strictly mixed according to the famous 3-2-1 formula: 3 parts Prosecco D.O.C., 2 parts Aperol, 1 part soda water, garnished with an orange slice.
Back to our journey: we have mapped out a bacaro-to-bacaro tour that takes you on a fascinating promenade through Venice’s calli, where sudden, peaceful quiet gives way to the bustle of the most popular thoroughfares; follow our recommendations step by step and you will not regret it. Starting from the beginning: just behind Santa Lucia station, the city’s sole link to the mainland, let yourself be guided by the calm canals into the lively Cannaregio neighbourhood, once the Jewish Ghetto, and lose yourself in its narrow alleys, artisanal workshops and vintage signboards. Enjoy a stroll along the waterfront connecting Fondamenta della Misericordia and Fondamenta dei Ormesini towards Ca’ d’Oro, before continuing into Sestiere Castello, home to Giardini della Biennale, and on to San Marco, a hub of art, culture and landmark spots.
From the grand square, make your way towards San Polo, renowned for the Ponte di Rialto and its historic local market, where you can take in romantic views over the Canal Grande amidst the chatter of fruit, vegetable and fish sellers. Catch your breath in Santa Croce, a neighbourhood that has retained its quiet original charm, overlooking Fondaco dei Turchi and Ca’Pesaro, before heading towards Sestiere Dorsoduro. As the student quarter par excellence, brimming with independent venues and all day & night long hangouts, it also hosts the cultural heart of the city: Galleria dell’Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Treat yourself to one final gourmet stop on the island of Giudecca, once lush with gardens and orchards, enjoying sweeping views over Venice in the shadow of Chiesa del Redentore.
Keep your phone and map handy. Here are the best addresses in the city for an exhilarating crawl through the authentic flavours of the Venetian lagoon, glass in hand, with plenty of cicchetti, ombre and spritz.
Al Timon
Cannaregio, Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2754
Near the Ghetto, Al Timon is well worth a stop. Here, heritage meets an appetite for innovation, with classic cicchetti reinterpreted with a creative twist. A prime spot for meat lovers, Al Timon doubles up as a steakhouse alongside its authentic bacaro identity. The highlight: a wooden boat moored right outside, where you can sit and enjoy your cicchetti on the canal.
Paradiso Perduto
Cannaregio, Fondamenta della Misericordia, 2540
From the alleys of the Ghetto along Rio della Misericordia, we come across a venue founded in the ’80s by young university students: Paradiso Perduto, conceived as a traditional osteria with a menu that changes daily depending on the fish market’s freshest catch. Yet authentic cooking is not the only draw: each week the venue hosts up-and-coming artists and musicians – alongside occasional headline names – surprising guests with innovative live performances.
Ca’ d’Oro alla Vedova
Cannaregio, 3912, Ramo Ca’ D’Oro
Cross Ponte Chiodo to find Ca’ d’Oro alla Vedova tucked away down a narrow alley. A historic osteria and an insider classic, it offers an evocative setting lined with antique furniture, vintage prints, wooden tables and polished copper pans. The tavern is celebrated above all for its crisp meatballs, piled high along the counter; the perfect savoury bite alongside a glass of local wine.
Taverna al Remer
Sestiere Cannaregio, 5701
Walk towards Campo Santi Apostoli and follow the canal to Taverna Al Remer, a romantic hideaway with the timeless atmosphere typical of historic bacari. Set near the Rialto Bridge, this tavern opens onto a small square overlooking the Grand Canal. It is a wonderful spot for a toast over cicchetti and refreshing ombre; alongside fresh meat and seafood dishes, the host will readily entertain you with local ghost stories.
Al Portego
Calle De La Malvasia, 6014
Leave the busy tourist trail behind as you turn away from the Rialto Bridge and step into the quiet of Calle de la Malvasia. Here, Al Portego strikes an ideal balance between a neighbourhood bacaro and a traditional osteria. The kitchen serves generous cicchetti alongside hearty Venetian classics: liver with onions, whipped salt cod (baccalà mantecato) and daily seafood specials, paired with a spot-on Aperol Spritz.
Aciugheta
Sestiere Castello, 4359
Continuing towards Sestiere Castello: just minutes from Al Portego, Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo opens up, where Aciugheta – founded as a true bacaro – serves an authentic Venetian osteria menu: sarde in saor, baccalà mantecato and fried meatballs. As the name suggests, the house specialities are anchovy-based cicchetti, especially the pizzetta and the egg. Pair them with a glass of wine chosen from an extensive list of local and international labels, or a classic Aperol Spritz.
Enoteca al Volto
Calle Cavalli, 4081, San Marco
After a quick visit and the classic photo in Piazza San Marco and by the famous Torre dell’Orologio, head into the surrounding alleys towards our next stop, Enoteca Al Volto. Opened in the ’30s, this lively venue sits on Calle Cavalli, a short walk from Ponte di Rialto. A historic address dedicated to traditional ombre and cicchetti, it welcomes guests into an informal atmosphere beneath an iconic ceiling lined with wine labels. Here, everything revolves around wine, supported by a virtually endless cellar selection; craft beer lovers will also find a generous lineup of bottles to enjoy with friends.
Do Spade
San Polo, 859
Cross over into San Polo, where Cantina Do Spade traces its history back to the late 15th century. The surrounding portico and calle take their names from this venerable Venetian haunt, a staple on any proper bacaro tour. The seafood cicchetti are not to be missed, especially the prawns, fried calamari, crab claws and cuttlefish.
Naranzaria
San Polo, 130
Overlooking the Canal Grande at Rialto, this traditional osteria showcases the aromas and flavours of an intriguing blend of East and West, standing where the Venetian naranzaria once operated as a citrus storehouse for Mediterranean imports. It is a venue to rediscover the pleasures of simple, well-crafted cooking, featuring organic produce from Vistorta, flavours from the Venetian mainland, cured meats from the Po Valley, and fine wine labels from across Italy.
H2 No
San Polo, 1105
A modern osteria with a penchant for beer, H2 NO champions the ritual of the cicchetto. Alongside regional wines and classic Aperol Spritz, it pours an assortment of craft beers to accompany imaginative “postage stamp” open sandwiches on dark bread. Traditional choices such as golden fried bites and crostini are well represented, with quality meats taking a fresh spotlight.
Do Mori
San Polo, 429
Founded near Rialto around 1462, Cantina Do Mori is known as one of the oldest bacari in Venice, and Giacomo Casanova was reputedly among its patrons. The interior is crammed with vintage demijohns, sepia photographs and copper pots dangling from the ceiling. It is the quintessential place to try traditional cicchetti in an atmosphere where time seems to stand still.
Rivetta
Santa Croce, 637a, Calle Sechera
From Campo San Polo, cross Ponte Canal into Santa Croce to reach Osteria Rivetta. Run by the same family for generations, this little tavern feels straight out of mid-20th-century Venice. Wash down a cold ombra with their signature tramezzini made with pitta bread and filled with cured meats and cheeses, or go for another tavern essential: hard-boiled eggs with anchovies.
Bacareto da Lele
Santa Croce, 183
A short walk from the green Giardini di Papadopoli, near Piazzale Roma, Da Lele is the quintessential Venetian bacaro, beloved across the city and especially by university students from the nearby IUAV. It is a tiny, charming spot where you can soak up the lagoon’s authentic atmosphere, ideal for an ombra and cicchetti at the counter or outside. The highlight here is the filled panini, packed with a wide selection of top-quality cold cuts such as porchetta, mortadella or lardo.
El Sbarlefo San Pantalon
Calle San Pantalon, 3757
Time for a quick toast before walking through the alleys of Santa Croce to an unconventional bacaro with international flair, reminiscent of New York. El Sbarlefo features wood panelling and a moody, dark colour scheme, with a black upright piano hinting at live music. At the counter, choose from fried seafood, meatballs, baccalà and stuffed courgette flowers; the vegetable-based dishes offer great vegetarian options.
Al Vecio Forno
Sestiere Dorsoduro, 3924, Ponte Della Donna Onesta
Over in Sestiere Dorsoduro, a lively corner favoured by students and gallery-goers, Al Vecio Forno delivers a contemporary spin on the genre as a “21st-century bacaro“. It features an industrial design with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the alleyways and a monochrome colour scheme. It is an excellent stop for traditional osteria flavours reworked in modern style, complete with hearty servings and local wines.
For the final stop, hop on a vaporetto across the water to Giudecca, Venice’s tranquil island strip once covered in gardens and green estates.
Ae Botti
Giudecca, 609
Step ashore on Giudecca and finish your crawl at Osteria Ae Botti, a characterful address with rustic charm that nods to old Venice. Besides wines by the glass and counter cicchetti, it is also well suited to a proper sit-down dinner of regional dishes. During the warmer months, take a table on the waterside terrace and dine with views of the sun setting over the lagoon.
A rewarding food crawl across a memorable slice of Venice, best experienced sip by sip and bite by bite. You can easily retrace this bacaro tour on your next trip to the lagoon; your taste buds will certainly thank you.
